20101228 – Touring about Aswan

Today was a grab-basket of activities. Shawki took us to view the granite stone quarries where the ancient Egyptians cut their raw materials. There is an unfinished obelisk still lying in the quarry, abandoned, but not forgotten. Akin to the giant towering obelisk created by Hatshepsut at the Temple of Carnak, it is one solid piece of granite. Hard to imagine that the ancient Egyptians only had chisels, their hands, and the natural powers of water and gravity to cut and move these enormous stones.

Up next was a brief tour of the high dam constructed to harness the power of the Nile waters. Then, we visited the last temple on our list – the Temple of Phila – the temple of love and where Isis and Osiris conceived Horus. Located on an island, this temple was originally underwater due to the habitual flooding of the Nile, but after the high dam was built, concerted efforts to move it succeeded in relocating the temple to another island. The entire thing was taken apart and restructured. We traveled by motorboat to tour the island and while the temple is beautiful, the scenery around was just as gorgeous.

But the best part was when Shawki showed us this special hieroglyphic. He said it was the first instance where “love” was depicted. See where the man’s hand is going? Instead of offering the key of life, the ankh, to the woman’s nose or face, he’s offering it to something else entirely.

Immature chuckles aside, we got back to the Nile banks just in time for our felucca ride. I’m assuming felucca means “sailboat,” but no one clarified. M feels like we were cheated since we were only supposed to sail around an island in the middle of the Nile and return to shore, but I think the ride was awesome. Peaceful, away from most of the terrible pollution, I loved the wind and sun in my face.

We didn’t sail around the predetermined island. In fact, with Shawki’s help we sailed to the far bank and went on an adventure instead. M had been eyeing the unattainable flame-colored sands on the far shore since we got into the boat and finally voiced his desire to scale the mountain and view the desert from the ridgeline.

We braved a thicket COVERED in thorns sharp as needles and longer than an inch. My poor foot was a casualty since I didn’t know we’d be jumping from bush to bush like gazelles and wore my flip-flops. After the thicket came sandy pebbly boulders that had to be scaled, but we did it. Well, we made it halfway. The ridgeline was much farther than it looked and we had to get back for lunch.

And so ends our journey down the Nile to Aswan.

Tomorrow, we fly to Abu Simbel, tour the huge monuments erected by Ramses II there, and catch another flight back to Cairo. That’s the plan at least. Hopefully tomorrow night I’ll be able to blog semi-normally from the comfort of my hotel room instead of the sweaty Internet café where I was only able to get one post up today.

Give the kitties a kiss for me Dad!

xoxo,

Jenn

20101225 – Carnak Temples by Day

*It’s been a while, but M and I have been left technologically stranded on a cruise boat for the last few days. To everyone who sent me emails and worried messages after hearing about the bus crash in Abu Simbel, thanks! M and I are great, having a blast. I’m currently blogging from an Internet cafe in Aswan. Things may look a little strange with the formatting, it’s because posting with an Arabic keyboard is super weird. M and I will be back in Cairo tomorrow night (the 29th) and I’ll update with the backlog of posts I’ve written. Love and miss you all!* Edit: Formatting fixed!

Merry Christmas!

After putting my last post up, I slept for a little less than two hours and we had to get up and be on our way to the airport. Luxor was waiting for us. Even though I looked somewhat chirpy at 4:45 a.m., I was most definitely not. However, I perked up when I saw our plane because I knew we were in for a good time – whenever you have to walk up stairs to board a flight, adventure beckons. The flight was short and sweet, and almost before we knew it, we were here!

Shawki, our new tour guide for the next few days, was waiting for us at the airport and led us to our cruise boat – “Mojito” – where we checked in briefly, put our luggage away, and set out for the Temples of Carnak. Like Ahab, our tour guide in Cairo, Shawki is a veritable fount of ancient Egyptian history knowledge and his passion for his culture and people is palpable.  The man can talk.

As he described the different details and specifics of the main Temple of Carnak, he made sure to steer us away from the crowds and position us at various spots for the best views of the monuments. He also had little regard for “Keep Out” signs or roped-off areas. Shawki had us ducking under or over such barriers and venturing into forbidden territory. We love Shawki.


The Temples of Carnak are immense and its history is even more staggering. Egypt has eight millenia behind it. Makes America’s few hundred years of history sort of measly.

These temples used to be all covered under tons of mud and sand because of floods from the Nile. Workers are still digging because there’s more to uncover. We saw likenesses of Ramses II and Nefetari, his “beauty has come” wife who is always depicted as a tiny statue barely reaching her husband’s knee. Shawki had a great time making jokes about “a woman’s place” with that one. Carnak has 134 columns and took 2,000 years to build. It sits on 200 acres. Unbelievable.

There is the Sacred Lake where pharaohs and priests used to purify and bath themselves before visiting the temple. And there was also a scarab statue (scarabs are good luck) you walk three times around for good luck, and seven times for a good marriage. We did seven loops. :)

All in all, it was an awe-inspiring experience.

We were supposed to see the Temple of Luxor in the morning as well, but Shawki likes to take his time and we explored Carnak for a little too long to have sufficient sight-seeing time according to him. So instead of taking us there anyway and having to rush a bit to see it all, Shawki volunteered to do a night tour for us. Of course we jumped at the offer. Really nice of him.

Details next post!

xoxo,

Jenn










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