20101229 – Jetsetting to Abu Simbel

I am utterly exhausted. Yesterday was the last day of our Nile cruise and this morning we checked out and left to board an early flight to Abu Simbel, Egypt’s most southern city, 25 miles north from the Sudan border on the man-made Lake Nasser.

Once there, a new tour guide told us about the history of Abu Simbel, just a town really. In the 1960s, the Egyptian government realized that many of the temples and monuments in Abu Simbel, at that time just a collection of small villages, would be underwater, destroyed and lost if they didn’t intervene soon. Therefore, they built homes for 50,000 workers who stayed there for 10 years with their families, relocating the temples.

The monument we saw today was one such temple. This one was moved about 700 feet south and 200 feet up in elevation to a man-made mountain. How did the Egyptians move this enormous temple? Much like the one in Edfu,  this temple was sawed entirely into over a thousand blocks, each weighing more than 2 tons. It was taken apart and reconstructed at its new site to escape the flooding waters.

Built by Ramses II, these buildings are the first thing any invading forces from the south would see and serve as a warning and a record of his military accomplishments. Bragging rights, in other words. Ramses II also built a temple to Nefertari, his favorite wife among many, on the side. Pictures weren’t allowed in the temples, but rest assured that the hieroglyphs were awesome. Though no one knows why one of the four statues of Ramses II in his different personas was destroyed, some suspect an earthquake may have caused the face and upper body to crack and slough off. The head can still be found at that statue’s feet.

Sight-seeing over, we boarded another plane back to Cairo. Today was the first taste I’ve had of the unbelievably inefficient transportation systems in Egypt. At least to me it seems ridiculous simply because the delay and wait for everything almost drove me nuts. We were delayed into Cairo by about half an hour, our bags didn’t come out for another hour, then the drive back to the hotel, through the chaos that is Cairo, took over an hour. To drive 14 miles. Just like traffic on the 405 in Los Angeles, but instead you have constant beeping and the awful pollution to contend with here.

We picked up our new tour leader, Mina, in the middle of the street. Literally. Our driver just barely slowed down while we were cruising down the highway, and Mina opened the door and jumped in, and we were moving again. That was totally a bank-robberesque pick-up. But anyway, Mina told us that Cairo was built to really house only 8 million. The 24 million is has now is the reason why everything is crazy.

Regardless of the reason, M had full-on meltdown on his hands. Especially because we hadn’t eaten since 6 a.m. and it was now past 6 p.m.

We checked back into the Grand Hyatt Cairo and immediately went out for food at the Hard Rock. Blech. Nothing to write home about.

However, this should pique your interest. We were supposed to do the Pyramids of Giza on the last day. But, because Alexandria is really busy and we couldn’t do it tomorrow, we are seeing the pyramids!

Also, M is working with a different travel agency to see if we can squeeze another excursion into our already packed schedule. Details soon!

xoxo,

Jenn

P.S. Chip, tell me how the cats are doing!

20101228 – Touring about Aswan

Today was a grab-basket of activities. Shawki took us to view the granite stone quarries where the ancient Egyptians cut their raw materials. There is an unfinished obelisk still lying in the quarry, abandoned, but not forgotten. Akin to the giant towering obelisk created by Hatshepsut at the Temple of Carnak, it is one solid piece of granite. Hard to imagine that the ancient Egyptians only had chisels, their hands, and the natural powers of water and gravity to cut and move these enormous stones.

Up next was a brief tour of the high dam constructed to harness the power of the Nile waters. Then, we visited the last temple on our list – the Temple of Phila – the temple of love and where Isis and Osiris conceived Horus. Located on an island, this temple was originally underwater due to the habitual flooding of the Nile, but after the high dam was built, concerted efforts to move it succeeded in relocating the temple to another island. The entire thing was taken apart and restructured. We traveled by motorboat to tour the island and while the temple is beautiful, the scenery around was just as gorgeous.

But the best part was when Shawki showed us this special hieroglyphic. He said it was the first instance where “love” was depicted. See where the man’s hand is going? Instead of offering the key of life, the ankh, to the woman’s nose or face, he’s offering it to something else entirely.

Immature chuckles aside, we got back to the Nile banks just in time for our felucca ride. I’m assuming felucca means “sailboat,” but no one clarified. M feels like we were cheated since we were only supposed to sail around an island in the middle of the Nile and return to shore, but I think the ride was awesome. Peaceful, away from most of the terrible pollution, I loved the wind and sun in my face.

We didn’t sail around the predetermined island. In fact, with Shawki’s help we sailed to the far bank and went on an adventure instead. M had been eyeing the unattainable flame-colored sands on the far shore since we got into the boat and finally voiced his desire to scale the mountain and view the desert from the ridgeline.

We braved a thicket COVERED in thorns sharp as needles and longer than an inch. My poor foot was a casualty since I didn’t know we’d be jumping from bush to bush like gazelles and wore my flip-flops. After the thicket came sandy pebbly boulders that had to be scaled, but we did it. Well, we made it halfway. The ridgeline was much farther than it looked and we had to get back for lunch.

And so ends our journey down the Nile to Aswan.

Tomorrow, we fly to Abu Simbel, tour the huge monuments erected by Ramses II there, and catch another flight back to Cairo. That’s the plan at least. Hopefully tomorrow night I’ll be able to blog semi-normally from the comfort of my hotel room instead of the sweaty Internet café where I was only able to get one post up today.

Give the kitties a kiss for me Dad!

xoxo,

Jenn